PoHo, the nickname for the area surrounding Po Hing Fong, a street in Sheung Wan, has seen a renaissance in recent years with young entrepreneurs taking over old storefronts and walk-ups to open boutiques, studios, cafés, and more. You could easily spend the whole day here. Start at Man Mo Temple on Hollywood Road, one of the oldest temples in Hong Kong. It’s home to Man and Mo, gods of literature and martial arts respectively. Together the gods represent the perfect student, so don’t be surprised if you see a stream of parents heading in clutching notepads and pens. When you come out of the temple, turn left up Square Street where you’ll find 15squarestreet, the retail outpost of a Scandinavian fashion and lifestyle brand. Continue around the bend to meet Tai Ping Shan Street, where you have two choices for refreshments—continue uphill to find the appropriately named Café Deadend for a coffee (try the Dirty Double: cold milk layered between two shots of espresso) and pastries from adjoining Japanese-inspired artisan bakery Po’s Atelier. Or, turn right, onto Tai Ping Shan Street where you’ll find cute-as-a-button café Teakha, where owner Nana Chan sources unique teas to accompany her delicious rustic pastries (we love the fig or ginger scones). From Tai Ping Shan Street, the short, perpendicular downhill streets of Tung Street, Sai Street, and Upper Station Street are home to a number of interesting independent boutiques, like Zixag, where you can find unique travel accessories and well designed goods from around the world. On Tung Street is Ellerman, the most elegant solution to all of your floral needs, be it a simple thank-you bouquet or dinner party decor. At the end of Tai Ping Shan Street, you’ll find Upper Modern Bistro for elevated French bistro food. If you’re in the mood for something decidedly more proletarian—and energizing—head back to Hollywood Road to Chachawan for authentic (and fiery) Thai cooking from Isaan. The funky mural and old-school steel front gate cross 1950s Hong Kong with Thai street life. Grab a stool at a bar and cocktail like the cucumber-and-mint-inflected Cha Cha Smash and wait till your table is ready.
When you see a black and white tower freckled with decorative mosaics opposite at flat building with a jade green roof, you’ve found the Man Mo Temple. Keep going down Hollywood Road, turning into one of the many roads opposite Blake Garden and welcome to PoHo!
15SQUARESTREET: G/F, 15 Square St.; +852-2362-1086; 15squarestreet.com
CAFÉ DEADEND/PO'S ATELIER: 72 Po Hing Fong; +852-6056-8005;
TEAKHA: Shop B, 18 Tai Ping Shan St.; +852-2858-9185; teakha.com
ZIXAG: 40 Sai St.; +852-3585-7467; zixag.com
ELLERMANN: 36 Tung St.; +852-2291-0388; ellermanndesign.com
UPPER MODERN BISTRO: 6-14 Elegance Court, Shop B,C,D &F/F Upper Station St.; +852-2517-0977; upper-bistro.com
CHACHAWAN: 206 Hollywood Rd.; +852-2549-0020; chachawan.hk